Past Is Present in Romanian Festivals - part 2

Past is Present in Romanian Festivals - part 1

If enjoyed reading Past is present in Romanian festivals – part 1, you’ll probably like to hear more about traditional festivals and their staples. A common one is the dance of the bears (the two-legged costumed variety). Along with their Gypsy trainer and a youth beating a tambourine-type instrument, the animals crawl through the crowd. Reaching the center, the bears dance until they fall to the ground, dead. After their hearts are taken by the trainer, they return to life, theoretically, a more gentle one. Even today, more bears exist in Romania’s Carpathian Mountains than any place in Europe and this ancient rite suggests the power of man to tame nature.

Throughout the festivities, masked figures ran about, banging anything that makes noise, to frighten away stray bad spirits that might have invaded the merrymaking. This is yet another reference to premodern days when it was believed that spirits of the deceased wandered Earth between Christmas Eve and January 6.

After young orators offered rhyming chants of welcome and good wishes for the coming year, the mayor presented round braided loaves of bread, representing abundance and rich harvests, to each participant as well as to a Senator or two who, true to the nature of politicians worldwide, knew the wisdom of appearing at public events.

Later in the day, in a scene repeated in villages and cities throughout Moldavia, groups of children, dressed as bears, horsemen or Gypsies, made the rounds of their neighborhoods. Announcing themselves with a jangling bell, they touched the homeowners with a flower-topped stick while chanting verses invoking them to be “strong as stone, quick as an arrow, strong as iron and steel.” In return, they received fruit, candy, a pastry, or some coins.

The snow and winter chill eventually move on, but in Romania, festivals aren’t about to depart . One of the most well-known summer events, Targu de Fete, or Maidens’ Fair, takes place each July atop Mount Gaina, not far from the town of Campeni in the province of Transylvania. In decades past, the festival served as an opportunity for young men to meet girls from neighboring villages (and vice versa, of course). Since this not infrequently led to marriage, everyone dressed in his or her finest traditional attire.

With today’s less isolated lifestyle, young people no longer need an annual event to meet. Happily, though, the festival lives on, remaining a time for traditional garb, food, music and dance.

A similar event, in an even more splendid wooded mountain setting, is held mid-August at the Prislop Pass along the northerly road which connects Maramures and Moldavia. Known as Hora la Prislop, this celebration attracts participants from many regions who, arrayed in folk costumes, come to mingle and enjoy the traditional music, songs and dances.

Religious festivals around the country are frequent and varied. The majority of Romanians belong to the Romanian Orthodox faith and it is not uncommon to come across processions of worshipers carrying flowers and icons to a church or monastery in honor of a significant event in the church calendar. In villages, participants most likely will be in traditional dress.

A major religious event takes place annually on August 15 near Moisei, a village near the eastern edge of Maramures. From around the county, people set out on a pilgrimage to Moisei’s monastery for the Feast of the Assumption. Walking in village groups, sometimes for two days or more, worshipers carry crosses and holy pictures. The majority are children and young people. In a scene reminiscent of first Communion, little girls wear pretty white dresses with white flowers, headbands or ribbons in their hair. Traffic along the narrow roads slows to a crawl as drivers wait their chance to pass the singing, joyful groups.

After leaving the main east-west road, the procession continues another mile and a half up a moderately steep dirt-and-rock road before reaching the spacious grounds of the monastery. Most groups arrive on the 14th so the grass is covered with clusters of people enjoying the chance to socialize and catch up on gossip from neighboring villages. A few vendors set up temporary shop, hawking food and trinkets.

Many, especially the elderly, kneel in prayer before icons set up on the grounds. Others worship in a small wooden church, typical of the region, dating to 1672 or in a larger, modern church nearby. On August 15, priests lead special services for the thousands who have gathered in the wooded setting.

With its mountains, forests, medieval sites and traditional villages, Romania seems uniquely designed for its role as guardian of traditional life and customs.

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